Surprise, surprise: If, while in the Printer Setup Utility, you hold down the Option key and click the "Add" toolbar button it provides access to the "Avanced" pop-up menu option in the resulting dialog sheet (you get me? No? Give it a try). That "Advanced" bit can be really quite useful when your Mac absolutely refuses to recognize your printer.

Maybe this is stupendously obvious to everyone else but I had no idea. That's the kind of hidden, non-obvious, power-usery shenanigans that makes me want to maniacally click every toolbar button everywhere with the Option key held down just to see what else is lurking in the Option-enabled alter-verse.